How to protect our dogs from our anxious behaviour

Comment

How to protect our dogs from our anxious behaviour

Get familiar with your dogs body language

As a dog owner, it's important to realise that our emotional state can impact our furry companions. Sometimes we can find ourselves struggling with anxiety, so it's essential to learn ways to protect our dogs from these negative emotions. One way to do this is by maintaining a routine that includes time apart, exercise, playtime, and regular meals. Also, try to keep a peaceful and relaxed atmosphere in your home. Avoid loud or sudden noises that could startle your dog, and if you need to vent your feelings, step away to another room to do so. Learn to understand how your dog communicates with you. It's also crucial to provide your dog with a safe space, such as a crate or designated area where they can retreat and feel secure. Remember, calm, happy pets have calm, happy owners, so learning how to manage anxiety will not only benefit your dog's well-being, but yours too.


How can I protect my dog from my anxious behaviour?

Dogs are sensitive to their environment and the emotional state of their owners. By managing your own anxiety and creating a calm and supportive environment, you can help protect your dog from the negative impacts of anxious behaviour and foster a healthier and happier relationship.

This might look like:

  1. Recognise and manage your own anxiety: Awareness of your own anxious behaviour is the first step. Seek professional help if needed to manage and reduce your anxiety. Techniques such as therapy, mindfulness exercises, and relaxation techniques can help you maintain a calmer state of mind.

  2. Maintain a routine: Dogs thrive on consistency and routine. Establish a regular daily schedule for feeding, exercise, and playtime. A predictable routine can provide a sense of stability and reduce stress for both you and your dog.

  3. Provide a calm living environment: Create a calm and peaceful living space for your dog. Minimise loud noises, excessive stimulation, and chaotic environments. Provide a designated and fixed quiet area or a safe space in your house where your dog can retreat and relax when needed.

  4. Reduce the area your dog has access to and create boundaries. For example, there should be at least one room your dog is not allowed into, in a house, consider not letting the dog upstairs. Be aware that things like Catflaps can create anxiety for some dogs.

  5. Take time for yourself, away from your dog. It’s important to fill our own cup first so that we can be in a good frame of mind for interacting with our dogs.

  6. Practice positive reinforcement training: Positive reinforcement training techniques can help build your bond with your dog, improve your dog's confidence and understanding and create a positive association with training sessions. Reward your dog for calm behaviour and focus on positive reinforcement rather than punishment.

  7. Engage in calming activities: Engage in activities that promote relaxation and reduce anxiety for both you and your dog. These may include leisurely walks, gentle playtime, bonding exercises, or participating in dog-friendly calming therapies like aromatherapy or music therapy.

  8. Seek professional help if needed: If your dog's behaviour is significantly impacted by your anxiety or if you're having difficulty managing your own anxiety, consider consulting with a professional dog trainer or an animal behaviourist. They can provide guidance tailored to your specific situation and help address any underlying issues.

Comment

How to build a solid relationship with your dog

Comment

How to build a solid relationship with your dog

Of all the other park users, distractions and things going on, this dog chooses to play with his owner.

Why is building a solid relationship important for me and my dog?

Building a solid relationship with your dog is crucial for companionship, trust, communication, training, emotional well-being, safety, and has health benefits for both you and your furry friend.

This dog doesn’t really have much choice but still looks like they’re having fun together :)

How do I build a solid relationship with my dog?

  • Meet your dogs genetic needs: Your dog was born with a predetermined set of genetic needs. How do you find out what those are? You read about the history of the breed/type or closest likely breed of your dog. The history will tell you what genetic markers were exaggerated in your dog to cause them to look and behave in certain way.

  • Meet your dogs basic needs: All dogs require a suitable diet and physical and mental stimulation. (Feeding your dog also helps improve your bond) take your dog on daily walks designed around meeting your dogs needs and keeping them on their toes. Engage your dog's mind with puzzle toys, interactive games, and training exercises. Mental and physical stimulation helps prevent boredom and provides a sense of fulfilment and job satisfaction. Look out for the '5 Needs' which can be found on the @CanineNeeds instagram grid.

  • Spend quality time together: Dedicate regular time to bond with your dog. Engage in activities you and your dog enjoy, such as interactive play and walking. This strengthens your connection and builds trust. Training sessions also help to improve communication and sets your dog up to succeed, giving him job satisfaction.

  • Groom and care for your dog: Regular cuddles, massage and grooming, including brushing, and nail trimming, helps maintain your dog's physical health and strengthens the bond between you.

  • Ensure balance: Also spend time ignoring your dog and spend time apart from your dog. This sets your dog up to be OK during points in the day when you are busy and teaches him how to fit into a human environment.

  • Decision making and establishing rules and boundaries: Make decisions for you and your dog. Set consistent rules and put boundaries in place. This provides structure and helps them understand household dynamics. Make sure everyone in the family is agreed and all reinforce these boundaries consistently.

  • Communicate effectively: Learn to understand your dog's body language and vocal cues. Use clear, consistent commands and cues during training. Try not to repeat commands and always use the dogs name first followed by the command. Once you have decided and asked your dog, don't change your mind or give up.

  • Be a reliable and consistent caregiver: Be dependable in meeting your dog's needs for food, water, exercise, and affection. Dogs thrive on routine and feel secure when they can rely on their human caregiver.

Remember, building a strong relationship with your dog takes time, patience, and effort. Each dog is unique, so understanding their individual personality and needs is essential. Enjoy the journey of getting to know your dog and creating a lasting bond based on trust, love, and mutual respect.

Shepherding breeds love to be outdoors and cover lots of ground.

Comment

Can you catch feelings from your dog?

1 Comment

Can you catch feelings from your dog?

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links from Amazon Associates. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you click on a link and make a purchase, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Some of the information in this article was sourced from ChatGPT, a large language model trained by OpenAI. While the information has been reviewed for accuracy and reliability, the opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ChatGPT or OpenAI.

The information provided in this content is for educational and informational purposes only and is not intended as a substitute for professional mental health advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of a qualified mental health professional with any questions you may have regarding a mental health condition. Never disregard professional advice or delay in seeking it because of something you have read in this article.

Can you 'Catch' feelings from your dog?

In this article I am going to explore whether we as dog owners/guardians should prioritise our relationship with ourselves and self care for the betterment of our dog's wellbeing.

Firstly, can we use the word “Catch”? I have seen some dog professionals disregarding these claims because of some confusion around the word 'Catch'.

There are many definitions of the word 'Catch'. We are using Catch as the synonym of Contagious:

(of an emotion, feeling, or attitude) likely to spread to and affect others.

  1. "her enthusiasm is contagious"

How are emotions between dogs and humans a two way street?

Emotional Contagion

Feelings can be contagious because of a phenomenon known as emotional contagion. Emotional contagion refers to the unconscious tendency of individuals to pick up and mimic the emotional states of those around them. This can happen in both positive and negative ways.

When someone is in a positive emotional state, such as feeling happy or excited, it can be contagious and spread to others in their environment. For example, if someone is laughing and having a good time, it can be difficult for those around them not to feel the same way. Similarly, if someone is in a negative emotional state, such as feeling sad, anxious, or angry, it can also be contagious and cause others to experience similar emotions.

One reason for emotional contagion is the mirror neuron system in the brain. This system is involved in empathy and social cognition and is activated when we observe others' emotions or actions. When we see someone expressing an emotion, our mirror neuron system fires as if we were experiencing that emotion ourselves, which can lead us to mimic the emotional state of the person we are observing.

Another factor in emotional contagion is nonverbal communication. Our facial expressions, body language, and tone of voice can communicate our emotional state to others, even without us saying anything explicitly. This can influence the emotional state of those around us and lead to emotional contagion

The Mirror Neuron System

The mirror neuron system is a network of neurons in the brain that is involved in mirroring the actions and emotions of others. It was first discovered in primates and later found to exist in other mammals, including dogs.

Mirror neurons are activated when an animal performs a specific action, such as reaching for a toy or performing a specific behaviour, and also when the animal observes another animal or human performing the same action. This allows the animal to understand the actions and intentions of others, and to imitate them if necessary.

In dogs, the mirror neuron system is thought to play a role in social communication and learning. For example, a dog may observe another dog performing a certain behaviour, such as sitting or shaking, and then imitate that behaviour themselves. Dogs may also use the mirror neuron system to understand the emotional state of their human companions, by observing their facial expressions and body language.

Studies have shown (see citation list at the end of this article) that dogs have a well-developed mirror neuron system, and are able to imitate the actions of humans and other dogs. They are also able to respond to human emotions and intentions, which may be linked to their mirror neuron system.

As a dog behaviourist, what examples of this behaviour do I see?

As my job suggests, I typically see negative examples of emotional contagion between dogs and their family members. A pattern that often emerges is, a dog lacks training in an area or develops a negative behaviour due to their experience and that creates an undesired behaviour that gives one or more of the human family members anxiety. It can often be unclear which came first, the dog’s stress or the human stress, then one reinforces the other, creating a downwards spiral effect.

Examples of where the owner learns from the dog:

A dog pulls on the lead. Over time the human becomes stressed or anxious about having to walk a dog that pulls, this can sometimes compound with environmental stressors and encourage the dog to become anxious being walked on lead outside.

A dog wasn't socialised properly as a puppy and has an inappropriate response to suitcases. Owner prefers to avoid walking past the tube station at rush hour to minimise their stress/anxiety.

A dog has a fear of other dogs, owner becomes anxious when they see a dog, reinforcing to the dog that fear is the correct response.

Examples of where the dog learns from the owner:

A family get a new puppy and are anxious about firework night. Puppy learns to fear fireworks.

Owner is anxious about leaving the dog at home alone. Dog develops separation anxiety.

Owner has an exaggerated startle response to the doorbell, dog develops high reactivity to doorbell, entrances and exits at home and can even continue into the public domain, for example, restaurants.

How can you tell if your dog is anxious?

Subtle behaviours

Whites of eyes showing or 'whale eye', lip/nose licking, yawning, pinned/set back ears, tail may be stiff or tucked under, cowering position, hiding away/ under something (normally dark).

Obvious behaviours

Excessive barking or whining, pacing or restlessness, trembling or shaking, destructive behaviour, excessive chewing or licking, may dig or scratch excessively, Aggression/ lip curling, Avoidance or withdraw, Panting or drooling, Changes in appetite or bathroom habits (having accidents)

What can you do to support your dog indirectly?

You know the saying you can't pour from an empty cup? And Put on your own oxygen mask before helping others? Well, this is essentially the point of the article. It matters to your dog that your cup is full.

It may actually do more harm than good to march with your dog through the city when you are feeling anxious or your cup is empty, risking creating or compounding negative experiences for both you and your dog.

I recommend a little check in or body scan when you arrive home to your dog or before taking your dog out to give you a baseline and practice one or more self soothing techniques if necessary. (see below)

A body scan is a mindfulness practice that involves systematically focusing on different parts of the body, bringing awareness to any physical sensations, tension, or discomfort that may be present. Here are some general steps to follow for a basic body scan practice:

  1. Find a quiet and comfortable place to lie down or sit, where you will not be disturbed.

  2. Close your eyes and take a few deep breaths, allowing yourself to become more relaxed and centred.

  3. Bring your attention to the top of your head, and begin to scan down through your body, paying attention to any sensations that you may feel in each area.

  4. As you move through each area, notice any tension or discomfort that you may be holding there, breathe in, hold and tense each body part and breathe out to release and relax.

  5. As you scan through each part of your body, try to remain present and focused, without judging or analyzing any sensations that arise.

  6. If your mind starts to wander or become distracted, gently bring your attention back to the area you are focusing on and continue with the practice.

  7. Once you have completed the scan, take a few moments to rest and simply observe any sensations that may be present in your body.

A body scan can be a helpful way to bring awareness to any areas of tension or discomfort in your body, and to cultivate a greater sense of relaxation and presence. With regular practice, you may find that you become more attuned to your body's sensations and better able to manage stress and tension in your daily life.

What is Self Soothing?

Self-soothing is the practice of calming and comforting oneself during times of stress, anxiety, or emotional distress. It involves taking deliberate actions to manage one's emotional state, and can include a variety of techniques

Self-soothing is an important skill that can help individuals manage difficult emotions and cope with challenging situations. It can help to reduce the intensity of negative emotions, increase feelings of relaxation and wellbeing, and promote overall emotional resilience. Self-soothing techniques can be practiced on one's own, without the need for external support or assistance, making them a useful tool for managing one's mental health and wellbeing.

Self soothing suggestions include:

Short visualisations

Meditation

Journaling

Yoga and exercise

Go for a walk or run

Catch up with friends

Cook yourself a nice meal or make your favourite snacks

Plan a night or weekend away

Bath with candles

Play your favourite music

Dance

Put on your favourite smells

Engage in or start new hobbies

Take yourself for a coffee

Make something or start a creative project

Volunteering

Read a book

Make yourself a photobook

Write a letter regarding an issue that is disturbing you

Write a letter to someone to whom things have been left unsaid or you are not able to say anymore.

Find your voice with a sound or song workshop

Grounding by walking with your feet in the grass

Butterfly hug

Tapping techniques

How can you support your dog directly?

Anxiety products, I like the Thundershirt for helping to bring your dog back into their body

A rough routine and appropriate boundaries at home can help your dog to feel more settled.

Spending time together, spending time apart, both of these are equally important, you can’t have one without the other.

Physical and mental stimulation will need to be tailored to the breed or type of dog you have but generally most dogs will enjoy this Lickimat

Training helps to improve your bond and some working breeds thrive on this.

Grooming and massage can be a nice way for both of you to wind down together in the evening.

Cuddles, obviously, Oxytocin all round!

I hope you have found this article helpful. Head over to my instagram @CanineNeeds to interact with me there and let me know if you have any questions or feedback. I’d love to hear from you!

Studies and reference material for this article

Sundman, AS., Van Poucke, E., Svensson Holm, AC. et al. Long-term stress levels are synchronized in dogs and their owners. Sci Rep 9, 7391 (2019). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-019-43851-x

Höglin, A., Van Poucke, E., Katajamaa, R. et al. Long-term stress in dogs is related to the human–dog relationship and personality traits. Sci Rep 11, 8612 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-88201-y

Emotional contagion in dogs as measured by change in cognitive task performance

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.applanim.2014.09.001

Author: Zsófia Sümegi,Katalin Oláh,József Topál

Publication: Applied Animal Behaviour Science

Publisher: Elsevier

Date: November 2014

Copyright © 2014 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Wilson C, Campbell K, Petzel Z, Reeve C (2022) Dogs can discriminate between human baseline and psychological stress condition odours. PLoS ONE 17(9): e0274143. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0274143

1 Comment

Puppy Farming Interview Part two

Comment

Puppy Farming Interview Part two

Below is part two of two of an interview with Hannah Greeno about puppy farming, how to find puppies responsibly and what to avoid when looking. Conducted by Priya Bassi.

PB: How has your workload or business been affected by puppy farming?

HG: My workload increases with the number of people that fall into the puppy farming traps. Unfortunately clients with farmed puppies have a long road ahead of them. Pretty much all teacup puppies are farmed and don't live much more than 6-12 months in many cases. So it has happened before that a client has spent a huge amount of money on training only for the puppy to die before training has even finished. More than health problems though, I see a huge increase in behavior problems with farmed puppies. Many exhibit behaviors at 13 weeks that you wouldn't expect an average city dog to develop until at least 8 months, if at all. Again the safest way to avoid this risk is to rescue an adult dog whose personality and primary experiences are already formed so you know what you are getting.

 

PB: Do you think that current legislations on puppy farming are effective in battling the trade or should they be updated? Are the sanctions under these acts effective?

HG: Current laws and sanctions are ineffective when it comes to puppy farming in my opinion. If they were effective we would see a decline in the problem but it only increases. At least now, governing bodies have started to view the epidemic as an issue that requires attention. A very good suggestion that was brought to the house of commons for discussion by the group Pup Aid, was that puppies should not be bought or sold unless seen with their mother.

 

PB: How are the dogs affected by puppy farming?

HG: The dogs are affected by puppy farming in many different ways. Mainly related to health and behavior problems. From a health perspective, little thought or care is given to whether or not either sire or dam is healthy and unlikely to pass hereditary problems on to their puppies. Puppy farmers are likely to follow certain trends in the market such as teacup, brachycephalic or dogs that are unable to mate naturally, causing fatal problems such as organs being too small to function, snouts being too short to function correctly or puppies getting stuck due to their unnatural shape. From a behavior perspective, the first 12 weeks of a puppy’s life is crucial, many aspects of development need to be covered in this time to ensure a well rounded companion dog. The puppy farmers do not have the time/environment/skill/knowledge or inclination to be bothered with correct puppy socialization and development. The implications of failing at this task, affect the whole of society in a negative way. Puppy farmed dogs almost always suffer a poor quality of life in some way.

 

PB: How do you think the puppy farming issue could be resolved or prevented?

HG: The puppy farming issue could be resolved or prevented by a culmination of factors including but not limited to, educating the public on how to avoid these cruel practices and how important it is to do a lot of research prior to getting a dog, capping the price of puppies to make it less attractive for people to breed for money, licensing and certifying every breeder of puppies. Accidental litters are found homes through rescue centers. Promoting dog rescue instead of buying puppies.

 

PB: How can the public be made more aware and educated on this illegal trade?

HG: This trade is not illegal, in many cases poor breeding facilities actually have a license to produce the puppies and puppies are legally imported into the UK. More awareness and education can be facilitated by using the mass media to expose what actually goes on within this industry, documentaries and television shows can be scheduled for prime time viewing, the government can pass effective legislation, prospective owners can take a dog professional or vet with them to view puppies in their environment and carry out questioning and testing prior to purchasing any puppy.

Comment

Puppy Farming interview part one

Comment

Puppy Farming interview part one

Below is part one of two of an interview with Hannah Greeno about puppy farming,  how to find puppies responsibly and what to avoid when looking. Conducted by Priya Bassi.

 

PB: How would you define and describe puppy farms (also known as puppy mills)?

HG: I would describe puppy farms as commercial producers and suppliers of puppies with their sole interest being monetary gain. Purposefully disregarding the health and welfare requirements, both physical and mental, of the dogs and any puppies produced.

 

PB: What do you think the main cause of the increasing popularity of puppy farming in the United Kingdom is? And what other factors do you think encourages puppy farming?

HG: I think the main cause of the increasing popularity of puppy farming in the UK is the current culture of impulse buying and consumerism which is supported and encouraged by the mainstream media. The public are able to purchase a puppy online the same way they would a television or their weekly shop. Or walk into a pet shop and buy 'the puppy in the window' with little to no advice given or questions asked. On a larger scale, unhappy people sometimes buy dogs impulsively in an attempt to make themselves feel better.

 

PB: Some argue that the media/internet is responsible for the increase in demand for puppies from mills as people are able to advertise the dogs online so that the true wellbeing of the dogs is unknown. However there is a counter argument that the media is important as it can bring awareness to the issue in a positive way through things such as online petitions. What role do you think the media/internet plays in puppy farming; is it necessary or unnecessary, is it more positive or negative?

HG: As with many issues, the key to solving the problem of puppy farming is education. The media and internet can be useful in serving this purpose. It is necessary to use the media and internet to create and spread awareness about these issues. However, currently I would say this medium is more negative than positive due to the following examples:

Instagram/facebook

Celebrity dogs

Advertising campaigns

Memes

Youtube

Film, eg. 101 Dalmatians, Men in Black etc.

 

PB: Do you find yourself getting a lot of inquires about how to avoid buying a puppy from a puppy farm?

HG: Unfortunately I don't get many inquiries from people looking to avoid buying their puppy from a puppy farm, unless they have been referred to me by a previous client.

Roughly 1 in 4 puppies I see are from a puppy dealer. A puppy dealer is someone who buys in puppies from the puppy farm in order to sell them on for profit. It has been known that this type of person will purposefully keep the puppies in very poor conditions so as to tug on the heart strings of customers, leading them to buy them the whole litter in an attempt to 'rescue' them. This is quick money for the dealer, who then replaces the puppies with more to sell and so it goes on.

 

PB: What advice would you give to someone who is looking to buy a dog that could help them avoid buying from a puppy mill?

HG: I set up my business to help combat puppy farming so I provide a service called Canine Needs Puppy Match. This allows me to guide a client through the puppy buying process step by step right from the beginning to avoid many of the mistakes that people commonly make. It does so much more than prevent people buying from puppy farms, but elements included that combat this problem are:

Responsible breeder sourcing – going to the right websites to find BREEDERS not adverts.

Interviews – Conduct telephone interviews to ensure they are actually a responsible breeder, I usually do this on behalf of my clients as I know the right questions to ask. I then expect the breeder to want to interview my client.

Home testing – I conduct a series of tests at the breeders home. Do not even go and see the puppies before meeting the mother first, if the mother is not perfect, go home.

The best guarantee for preventing puppy farming is dog rescue.

Comment

Introducing house training routine primary

1 Comment

Introducing house training routine primary

Many of my clients will contact me for help with toilet training their new puppy. If you have purchased a puppy from a reputable breeder, your pup should already be house trained by the time you collect at around 8 weeks old. The breeder should then provide you with a routine so that you are able to maintain the house training schedule in your own home, minimising any accidents.

You can see details of an example primary puppy routine below, which is used from 4-6 weeks of age to implement house training and weaning. Please always supervise your puppies when in the garden. If you don't have a safe, enclosed, private garden, you shouldn't be breeding dogs.

7am out to toilet in garden with Mum for 15 minutes

715am food and play 15 mins

730am sleep in whelping box without Mum (Mum break)

9am out to toilet in garden with Mum for 15 mins

915am food and play 15mins

930am sleep in whelping box with Mum

11am out to toilet with Mum

1115am food and play

1130am sleep in whelping box (mum break)

 

1pm out to toilet with mum and dad (or similar)

115pm play and food

130pm Sleep in whelping box with mum

3pm out to toilet with mum and dad

315pm food and play

330pm sleep in whelping box (mum break)

5pm out to toilet with mum and dad

515pm food and play

530pm sleep in whelping box with mum

 

7pm out toilet with mum

715pm cuddles and food

730pm sleep in whelping box (mum break)

9pm out to toilet with mum

915pm playtime

930pm sleep on humans

11pm out to toilet

1115pm bedtime with mum

1 Comment

The Oodle-noodle-poo Conundrum

Comment

The Oodle-noodle-poo Conundrum

Many people come to me to asking for help when it comes to finding the right dog for them, which is fantastic and why I set up the Canine Needs Puppy Match service in the first place.

Canine Needs Puppy Match - To guide people away from making the common mistakes when adding a dog to their life, which more often than not, leads to the dog ending up in rehoming centres, feeling lost and confused.

However, I would like to address the Poodle cross craze. A growing number of people, and by now it really is about 1 in 3 clients, contact me asking for help finding them find a Cockapoo/Maltipoo/Labradoodle/udon noodle doodle etc. I would like to present here the common problems I see with this craze in my everyday work life as an urban dog trainer and behaviourist.

Man creates Frankendoodle

Firstly, let's look briefly at the history of how all of this began. Mr. Wally Conron of Australia worked for the Royal Guide Dog Association. A blind lady needed a guide dog but her husband was allergic to dogs. Mr. Conron took on the task and set about attempting to train the Standard Poodle, for the task. 33 dogs and 3 years later, he was running out of time. In desperation, Mr. Conron crossed a Standard Poodle with his best female Labrador and 3 pups were born. After sending hair and saliva samples of the 3 pups to the husband, only one of the litter was non allergenic. However, Mr. Conron had trouble finding guide dog foster homes for the hybrid puppies, even with a long list of available foster homes, people only wanted to foster purebred dogs. So Mr. Conron asked the PR team to go to the press and tell them a new dog had been created called the Labradoodle, well, then the phone didn't stop ringing.

When asked if Mr. Conron is proud of creating the Labradoodle he says “No! Not in the slightest” when interviewed, he goes on to say “All these backyard breeders have jumped on the bandwagon, and they're crossing any kind of dog with a poodle. They're selling them for more than a purebred is worth and they're not going into the backgrounds of the parents of the dogs. There are so many Poodle crosses having fits, problems with their eyes, hips and elbows and a lot have epilepsy. I opened a Pandora's box, that's what I did. I released a Frankenstein. So many people are just breeding for the money. So many of these dogs have physical problems, and a lot of them are just crazy.”

The name game

Mr. Conron's PR gimmick took off all over the word. The cockapoos had already come about by accident in America in the 50's though had little popularity. But all of a sudden there were goldendoodles, shihpoos, schnoodles, maltipoos and anything else you could think of. The label 'designer dog' was added to make them sound more compelling and raise the price tag further. You can almost guarantee that anyone using these made up marketing names for their litter of puppies is an irresponsible breeder and solely breeding dogs for the money.

Puppy Farming (very briefly)

Due to the high demand of these 'designer poodle crosses' coupled with their high price tag, these dogs are most commonly produced in puppy farm like environments (commercially produced with little or no care for welfare of pups or parents). Some are then sold on to 'dealers' who pose as families in a home environment, usually making excuses as to why the mother cannot be seen with the puppies and saying everything they think you want to hear. There are worse cases of these dealers or farmers keeping puppies alive but near death so as when potential buyers visit they have to buy ('rescue') the whole litter because they couldn't possibly bear to leave them there. The sad fact is, that this is a technique they use to make the money, as soon as those puppies are gone they are quickly replaced with more sick puppies and all the well-meaning buyer did was fund the cruelty. I guess you could say its similar to the child beggars in India that are made disabled to earn more money from the tourists.

Poodle history

The Standard Poodle originated in Germany as a hunting retriever (often ducks) in marshes, swamps and lakes. This 'rough, tough' water retrieving breed was known as far back as 1665 for their intelligence, skill and daring, this coupled with their trainability, led to them becoming stars of the circus. The smaller Poodles are known for their playfulness, self-confidence and protective nature. The Kennel Club advises an hour a day is enough exercise for this breed. The Poodle is ranked the second most intelligent dog out of all the dog breeds, a high amount of mental activity will be required.

Now here's what the above paragraph actually means. The Poodle is a swamp dog. The irony here is that many people think a poodle cross is a good match for them because they are known to shed less hair, in theory making them ideal for lovely, clean urban households. In fact the opposite is true. Even for allergy sufferers, crossing any breed of dog with a poodle doesn't necessarily make it hypoallergenic because there is no consistency in crossbred litters.

With every dog breed it is crucial that you are able to satisfy their genetic instincts. For a Poodle this means that you must provide your dog with access to a swamp-like environment, they love mud, muddy puddles, water, swimming and generally getting very dirty. Their coats are usually unnaturally curly so mud doesn't fall off nor can it be wiped off with a towel for example, most poodle type owners have car travel crates, hosepipes in the garden and a side gate. To satisfy the retrieving instinct of the Poodle, you must play fetch with them, ideally in their muddy, swamp environment.

The intelligence of a Poodle is very high, however for most modern urban families this can work more as a curse than a blessing. They don't cope well with being left alone or left out of activities, which for many families is impractical. This intelligence doesn't allow for making many mistakes. If the Poodle learns a trick in say 2 repititions that also means if you make a mistake twice, your dog has learned that pattern of behaviour too, causing extreme behaviour problems very quickly. This is often why I see such extreme separation problems in Poodle based dogs.

In short, the poodle gene is not a match for the houseproud or families whose members are at work and school all day. They would, however be a great match for dog enthusiasts, those who would have lots and lots of time to spend with their Poodle type in the muddy forests playing games.

Poodle crossed with working dogs

The Standard Poodle is a working retriever breed, the miniature and toy variations are bred to be companion versions however still possess many of the working traits. When you cross this type of dog with other working dogs such as commonly, the Spaniel, Labrador or Golden Retriever, you do not get a companion animal. If all working instincts are satisfied almost daily then you may have a working dog that also excels as a companion. Many people think these dogs look cute or teddybear like which further fuels the contradiction. The Labradoodle for example is the dog type that is most commonly seen in court cases in the UK due to their needs not being met properly, lack of training and general out of control behaviour that is commonly seen within the first two years of the dogs life.

Poodle crossed with companion dogs

There are many breeds of dog that have been bred as a companion dog for humans. The ancient Italian Greyhound from Pompeii for example is a small companion dog very much suited for modern urban lifestyles as that is what it was bred for all that time ago. Other ancient breeds such as the Maltese (350BC) and the Shih Tzu (800BC) have been developed to perfectly suit the role of a companion dog and already shed very little and are often suitable for allergy sufferers. Ask yourself then, why would you cross it with a Poodle? What benefits does that bring? By now you should be aware of the pitfalls, but to summarise just in case:

  • The Poodle is a swamp dog that requires regular access to muddy water.

  • The Poodle is ranked the second most intelligent dog breed and so needs almost constant attention or else behaviour problems develop.

  • The Poodle crosses are almost always produced in puppy farms or just for the money.

  • Puppy farmed puppies usually have many and serious health and behaviour problems.

  • With cross breeding there is no consistency so you don't know what your getting.

  • With cross breeding there is often little effort put into testing the parents health and temperament prior to breeding.

  • If you are set on this type of dog, please wait for one to arrive at an adoption centre near you.

For more information please get in touch or look out for future blog posts on topics such as puppy farming and what's wrong with buying dogs from the internet, purebred vs crossbred and a new initiative that Canine Needs will be rolling out across the UK.

Comment

Puppy Jabs

1 Comment

Puppy Jabs

Vaccinations

Given all that is written in the last post on puppy socialisation, it is very important that your puppy is out and about at the earliest age possible so as to maximise the benefit of the socialisation period. Currently, the earliest you can safely walk your puppy in the UK is somewhere between 10 and 11 weeks old. The most common practice for vaccinating puppies is as follows. The first vaccination is given no later than 8 weeks old. The second vaccination is then given two weeks later at 10 weeks old. Vets usually to tell you to wait roughly 7 days after the second jab before it's safe to walk your pup. This means the day that your puppy turns 11 weeks old and the week that follows is one of the most important weeks in your dogs life, as this is the optimum window for socialisation. You can continue to socialise your pup all through puppyhood, however after the age of 16 weeks he will not be so accepting to new experiences.

This information is intended as a rough guide only. Please check the information with your vet as timings can vary depending on vaccination brand.

1 Comment

Puppy Socialisation

Comment

Puppy Socialisation

so·cial·i·za·tion [soh-shuh-luh-zey-shuhn]

noun

  • A continuing process whereby an individual acquires a personal identity and learns the norms, values, behaviour, and social skills appropriate to his or her social position.

  • The act of meeting for social purposes.

 

Firstly I would like to clear up the misunderstanding of the word socialisation when we talk about puppy socialisation. There are two definitions for the word, as written above. The second definition is the most commonly used and therefore assumed, the first definition is what is actually meant by puppy socialisation.

The Primary Socialisation Stage for puppies is 3-6 weeks old. In this time, at your pups Breeder's house, your puppy will have gotten used to living in a household and familiarising itself with all the sights and sounds of everyday household things such as electrical appliances, people coming in and out, and hopefully children running around, cats etc. This is also the time that your dog learns everything it needs to know from it's Mother and siblings and sometimes even Father. In a nutshell, by 6 weeks old your puppy has become fluent in 'dog language' having learnt everything it needs to know about being a dog.

The ideal age to get your puppy is around 7-8 weeks. Now it's your turn to make the absolute most of the Secondary Socialisation Stage. Many puppies are naturally shy and reserved, especially with strangers and different environments and must be taught how to thrive in a human environment. This will be crucial for the development of your puppy to ensure a well balanced adult! Don't worry if you can't get your puppy until slightly later, you can ask your Breeder to do this stage for you (although ideally you wouldn't want to pick up a puppy much after 9 weeks old).

It has been written that the Secondary Socialisation Stage is between 6 and 9 weeks old but it is more commonly accepted as being 6-12 weeks old. The main aim here to teach your puppy 'human language' or how to integrate into human society. There is research available that supports the fact that puppy socialisation classes or 'parties' where in, a group of puppies are put together to play does nothing to teach your dog 'human language' or how to be part of your community. It only gives the puppy more opportunities to practice what it has already learnt in the litter and encourages your puppy to disregard people and ignore his owner whilst developing aggressive technique through play. The only situation where this would be of benefit would be in the circumstance of only pups (one born in the litter).

Even before your puppy is allowed to walk out in public (pre jabs), it is up to you to carry your pup to everywhere he will be expected to accept when he's had his jabs and more. You also want your puppy to meet as many friendly people as possible so that your pup has positive experiences with people and learns that they are 'friends'. Pass your puppy around for cuddles when he is sleepy or encourage friends to play fetch with him when he has lots of energy! I find massage helps calm a puppy that just won't settle. Allow your puppy to spend time with/relax in the company of people from all walks of life, children and the elderly, drunks and extroverts, all races, different hairstyles, dreadlocks, punks etc. all different types of clothing, different hats, hoods, big sweeping shawls and coats, people exercising outside, especially things like press ups etc. Examples of great places to spend time with your puppy would be pubs, cafes, shops, high streets and shopping destinations, wait outside supermarkets, take him to friends houses, parks (especially in Summertime), markets, carnivals, festivals and big crowds, parties, city centres, rural countryside, farms, all public transport, trains and stations, buses, tubes and trams etc. even if you don't plan on using all these things with your puppy in future, it all adds to varied life experiences for him. It can sometimes help to get a 'dog in training' vest/lead as people tend to be more permitting of dogs in public places wearing these.

It is also a great idea, if you have knowledgable/dog people willing to help you, after you have had your puppy for a couple of weeks, give your puppy to a friend/family member to look after for a few nights and maybe they give your puppy to another family member to look after for a couple of nights etc. it teaches your puppy that all humans have the same intentions, all humans feed you, play with you, cuddle you and look after you etc. and are not to be feared. This exercise can be repeated several times, feel free to go on holiday!

Once your puppy is allowed out and about in public which should be no later than 11 weeks old (post jabs) you can repeat the last paragraph, going to as many places as you can! You can also start to introduce how your puppy should behave around dogs. It is wise not to encourage your puppy to play with other dogs/puppies too much. Choose your dog's role models carefully. It is a myth that dogs need friends of their own species. A dog's owners and family should be his friends if you want him to integrate into our society. As an example of this research, the Anatolian Shepherds will take a puppy Anatolian Shepherd Dog at 6 weeks old and raise it with sheep and no human contact what so ever. The dog then grows up believing he is the same as the sheep or the sheep are the same as him but either way the dog will defend the sheep from anything including others of his own species - dogs, wolves, bears, cheetahs, coyotes etc.

Please feel free to contact me for more information or if you would like to discuss any of these points further.

Comment